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Posted by Mikeydents on 29 November 2016 - 06:41 PM
If you have not seen or heard of cold glue yet check it out at stickyickyglue.com, Our cold glue tabs pull bulk metal fast. You can pull dents out of pillars and rockers as well. 100% made in the USA by a PDR tech, me. Thanks for checking us out.
Posted by TimC on 26 February 2013 - 09:03 AM
I want to add something here about the PPV also. It was started by Dman not to make money off of the forum but because a bunch of the users of the forum wanted it that way. They feel that they could share more information among each other if each one made a monetary commitment to belong. The idea was to keep a casual reader that may not even be a full time PDR tech from seeing the information that was being shared between a lot of really great techs. That is how it was born for just a little history lesson.
Posted by Dman on 18 February 2007 - 07:19 PM
Posted by Wassup on 04 February 2007 - 10:06 PM
Posted by Marty on 04 February 2007 - 10:00 PM
A lot of techs have problems with "corn rows" in their dents. For those that may not be familiar with this term, corn rows are those parallel rows of micro ridges and creases that many techs see as soon as they cross check their dents. The main reason they aren't seen until you cross check, is because light runs right through the micro ridges and valleys when they are perpendicular to your reflective source, because there is little for the light to reflect off of. This makes this area of the dent look fairly uniform, even though it isn't. When you cross check by moving the board 90 degrees, you see the rows because the light is now reflected off the ridges and valleys, the light can no longer run right through them. See illustration #1.
Most often, the tech who gets corn rows is ..To view this article in it's entirety, you must subscibe to the ppv section.
Posted by TimC on 26 July 2018 - 09:07 PM
Think of it this way John. Every push you make (especially with a sharp tip) actually stretch's it but in the opposite direction. When you do that it will pull metal towards your tip from every direction. When you make a whole bunch of pushes so close that you can barely see that you moved it does the same. When you do 30/40/50 or however many pushes you make you have actually gathered the metal up in the bottom of that dent and took the stretch out of the larger area. If you were to make a wrong push outside of the center of the dent you would actually extend the amount of time it would take to fix it because you have pulled metal away from the center and in the opposite direction. These are very small pushes that he is talking about to where you just start to see the metal moving then move your tip.
I hope that helps.
Posted by Marty on 01 June 2018 - 10:04 AM
Ya lots of cool shapes you can make with boiling water. I also use my wife oven to anneal aluminum to make stuff for PDR. My wife LOVES IT when I do that!
Posted by Marty on 10 May 2018 - 09:56 PM
If your talking about the reference to bodyline hinge. That was covered in the class before we did this video so I can see that may need explaining. When a body line gets impacted (say a dent about 6 inches in diameter) the body line, even when it is pushed out will many times still have what old time panel guys called a hinge on either side of the dent as far as an additional 6 inches from the edge of where the original dent was. That means that the total damaged area of a 6 inch body line dent could be as long as 18 inches.
So when you get the original 6 inch bodyline dent out you notice that the body line many times really resists coming out that last little bit. That is usually the body line hinge, 4-6 inches either side of the dent holding the last of the dent in.
Now the hinge will not be very visible but it almost always will be a slightly flattened area on this bodyline outside of the damaged area still keeping that last little general low area in the damaged bodyline. So we start about 4-6 inches out from the diameter on either side of where the dent used to be and sharpen the line up all the way into the dent from both sides. When you do this the general low in the bodyline damaged area will easily come up. This explains many times why that soft general low you see in a bodyline after most off has come out, is so hard to push up. It has a long spring on either side of it, hidden in the undamaged bodyline on either side of it, holding it in.
This hinge acts like a long spring inside the bodyline on either side of the damaged area holding the rest of the body line from coming out easily.
If necessary I can draw a pic and post it. Kinda hard to describe without a visual aid.
Posted by PDR-Squire on 29 July 2013 - 02:34 PM
Hay Dman, I thought I had access to PPV ? What gives ? Wheres the pics ?
Posted by shane jacks on 26 February 2013 - 05:56 PM
Just pay for the PPV. It is well worth the money. Just my .02.
Posted by Dman on 23 December 2012 - 12:51 PM
Posting youtube videos is a little different here than on the other forums. Here all you have to do is copy and paste the url.
will get you this
Posted by Dman on 10 March 2010 - 08:11 AM
Large dent over 2 body lines in Holden Commodore ve sv6.
This dent is deep and has some nice highs around it but really looks worse than it is, as do most dents on the large side.
Doing bigger retail dents every day makes you really look and try to pin point what is holding the dent in, in this case it was the body line just below the handle holding the bulk and the body line near the window holding the rest.
Posted by Dman on 18 February 2007 - 01:20 PM
Posted by Poppadent on 18 February 2007 - 01:13 PM
The most effective way I've found to remove the dents in the plastic bumpers is a three step process...
First, I use a curing lamp (that mobile painters use) to heat the damage and surrounding area. The heat from the lamp softens a large enough area for pushing the bulk of the damage out. When you heat a larger area, it allows more of the pressure and crowning to dissipate as it softens the plastic. With the larger surface area heated and pliable, there is less pressure required to move large or deep damage. Before you push....
Posted by MaDmAn on 11 February 2007 - 01:22 PM
When Dave (ACNJ) and I got out of pdr school we met on the DK BB. Somehow we related to each other more because we were at the same level of expertise. "None". So we weren't ashamed or afraid to ask each other what seemed like stupid questions. We talked on the forum, (Thanks DK, and Mike U) and through E-mails and ICQ just about every day. We discussed things like what we had discovered the previous night working on our practice hoods, and how close we were to actually getting a ding out 100%. We compared our progress along the way. We could relate on a level that was our own. Being a newbie, it is difficult to get the answer you're looking for from a veteran tech, because they have often forgotten exactly what it is you are looking for in a question. Then it happened. We actually started working on real cars!
Before we knew it, we were working on cars that didn't belong to friends and family, and actually started getting paid. Now we had lots.....To view this article in it's entirety, you must subscibe to the ppv section.
Posted by Marty on 11 February 2007 - 11:48 AM
In this article, I will describe how to make any rod type tool into an adjustable handle tool. Some techs don’t see the need for these, but almost everyone that has tried them notices a big improvement in how long they can work comfortably with one. This type of handle also allows the tech to move it slightly to clear objects such as door frames, inner panels, and wheels etc because the handle can be adjusted out of the way.
This tool will adjust to 24 positions, or every 15 degrees. To adjust them, you just pick up on the handle and rotate it to the position you want, and release it to lock the tool. Unlike other handle designs, the handles stay with the tool and adjust very easily. It is also not necessary to take the tool out of the door to adjust, it can be adjusted while you work. I feel these are more user friendly than the 4 position, or 90 degree adjustable handle tools. Sometimes just a 15 degree adjustment will allow you to work easier because your wrist, elbow, and arm are in a much more comfortable position. The “twist, push” tool movements down doors are easier when you can put the handle where you want it.
I will describe making an adjustable “L” handle tool. This procedure can be changed a bit to make a “T” handle tool also.
The first step is to go to www.mcmaster.com and order as many adjustable machinist handles as you will need. The part number is 6875K111 for a 5/16-18 handle which should be fine for most all tools. A larger handle is available, but in most cases should not be needed, unless you want this handle on a 3/8” or 7/16” diameter rod. If you need a metric version of this handle I believe they are available at Mcmasters also, but you may have to call the company to get them. See pic#1 for a picture of this handle.